Mednarodna alpinistična odprava Kishtwar 2015, ki so jo sestavljali Slovenca Urban Novak in Marko Prezelj (oba AO PD Kamnik), Američan Hayden Kennedy in Francoz Manu Pellissier, je oktobra kot prva uspela preplezati zahtevno vzhodno steno Cerro Kishtwarja (6173 m), markantnega vrha v indijskem Kašmirju, ki je zaradi svoje podobnosti dobil ime po bolj znanem Cerro Torreju v Patagoniji. Tehnično izjemno zahteven vzpon, ki so ga ocenili z ED+, povišano najvišjo stopnjo francoske šeststopenjske lestvice, je nov vrhunski alpinistični dosežek v Himalaji.
First ascent of Cerro Kishtwar’s East Face by Kennedy, Novak, Pellissier and Prezelj
In October 2015 alpinists Michael Kennedy (USA), Urban Novak (SLO), Manu Pellissier (FRA) and Marko Prezelj (SLO) made the first ascent of Cerro Kishtwar’s East Face.
In the available time of the international expedition Kishtwar 2015 and in quite variable weather and relatively challenging conditions, they managed to climb two new routes:
– Chomochior (6278 m): south ridge, D+, 1400 m. A new route and a second ascent of the summit. Ascent accomplished between the 27 and 29 September 2015; climbers were Marko, Hayden and Urban. Descent by rappelling and descending along the eastern slopes to the lower third of the mountain, from where we descended along the ascent route [Photo].
– Cerro Kishtwar (6173 m), east face: Light before Wisdom, ED+ 1200 m (5.11, WI6, M6, A2). A new route and the third ascent of the summit. The route, which we named Light before Wisdom, was climbed between 5 and 8 October 2015 by Marko, Manu, Hayden and Urban. Descent along the southern slope to the notch which meets the east couloir, along which we rappelled to the foot of the east face
Photo credit to all the attached photos goes to Marko Prezelj.
